Wednesday, January 25, 2023

St. Thomas 2023: Ducks on a Boat

Thanks to John's mandatory one-week leave from work each year, we were once again blessed with the GIFT of a week's getaway with the Ducks in a dreamy Caribbean locale with unlimited pina coladas and mimosas and spa appointments. Heaven on earth essentially. This time we explored St. Thomas (US Virgin Islands) and spent some time in the BVIs too. The recurring theme for our trip this year seemed to be seizing the day and taking on every adventure offered to us. Follow along with our fun! Thanks to our fabulous grandparents and babysitters (Sydney Ellen and Sydney) for making this trip possible.

January 3rd

We boarded our 6 am flight during a terrible storm and then had to deplane for a screen in the cockpit that wasn't working. As soon as the pilot came on the plane's speaker to announce that bad news, John was already dialing Delta and was able to get us on another flight to Atlanta in time to make the only other flight to St. Thomas that day (although with a very quick connection). Lots of celebration when we finally got on the plane to St. Thomas!


Upon approach to landing in St. Thomas, this rainbow greeted us. It was a perfect way to start our trip because we saw at least one a day (it rained every single day, usually just a quick shower).


We finally made it to the St. Thomas Ritz Carlton!


The club level restaurant


Our room (Club Ocean Front Suite King)



Den area



View from our room



Dinner at Alloro which is an Italian restaurant on property



January 4th

Lots of kitty cats on property


After a massage, I'm a happy girl with a pina colada and a Diet Coke!



We wandered along the beach in front of the hotel (which was very rocky). There was a huge rocky shelf a few feet into the water, so it was ouchy to get out into the surf.




As we made our way back to our lounge chairs on the beach, the Ducks found this guy!!! Did we just pass him by on our way out there?? 


HUGE!




Meanwhile, back at home...


Ready for dinner


The ride from the airport to the hotel was about 30 minutes of windy roads, so we cancelled our dinner plans at a faraway spot and rescheduled at a local spot in Red Hook. Red Hook is a little village about a 5-10 minutes taxi ride away from the hotel with lots of restaurants, a small grocery/liquor store, etc. After dinner at XO Bistro, we came back to the patio outside Alloro.



January 5th

Thursday was our big day that we planned to spend out on a boat- a new adventure for the four of us together! We reserved a full day cruise to BVI through Ocean Runner (Brad and Adam were our captains) on a 37' Axopar named “Isla's Quest.” (Note that some boats do not have fuel and gratuity costs included in the initial cost.) They asked where we wanted to go, and I told them that we wanted to island hop and snorkel but my stretch goal would be Virgin Gorda. They highly recommended Virgin Gorda although it was a 45 min ride. It seemed to be really windy every day we were there, and the captains warned us that it would be especially bouncy on the way out there since we were going against the waves. They offered to give us a chance to bail around the 20 min mark, but when we got there, everyone seemed fine so we kept going. We later learned that there was some secret seasickness creeping up there, but we powered on and man, we are glad we did!

Trying to hang on tight!


We got pretty wet at one point, but this double rainbow was a nice reward.



We made it to Virgin Gorda! A nice perk about going there as the first BVI stop was that customs at Virgin Gorda allowed guests to go on with their adventures while the captains waited with the boat. Other ports would make guests wait too which can take as much as an hour and a half. We hopped in an open air shuttle bus that was waiting and took us up to the baths (maybe 10-15 mins).

Virgin Gorda baths were WELL WORTH THE WORK (and conquering seasickness) to get there. It's a national park, $3/person, trail makes a one mile loop. The walk starts in a dessert like trail, goes through the "caves" with water and rocks, puts you out at a beautiful beach, and then you hike up and out.










Oh WOW. I just kept saying WOW. I've never seen anything like this before.














The famous "sanctuary"




We made it to the beach and found a rum punch!


And some cold water!




I could have stayed here all day!



So many hermit crabs and even a rooster on the hike back up


Onward to Willy T's for lunch!



I love all the islands and rocks out in the water. On one such rocky outcrop, our boat captains told a story of a pirate captain casting their mutinous crew out and leaving them with just rum, etc.


Willy T’s in the bay of Norman Island- a real pirate ship restaurant and bar that is only accessible by boat. The staff there live on the boat 4 days on, 4 days off, and funny enough, they were mostly Scottish!







The Ducks were brave enough to jump off!



Now to snorkel! Annie and I kept saying, "Is this real life?!"




Our captains took us to some caves at Treasure Point that you can snorkel into and through.






We are never coming home!




Even though these girls are pretty cute!


That's Jeffery Epstein's house on Little Saint James


Please don't make us get off the boat! I'm so proud of us for conquering fears and really taking advantage of the adventurous opportunities!


John brought us pizza on the beach for a dinner part 1...we did end up going up to Alloro to eat in our swimsuits on the patio which was perfect.


January 6th

On my way up to the lobby, I took some snaps of the grounds. This is walking up from the adult pool to the main lobby. (Nothere there is a kids' pool with a slide and an adult pool overlooking the beach)







Back to my mimosa


John and Annie went snorkeling off the hotel's beach and found a conch shell!



The Ritz' boat, Lady Lyndsey, takes group tours out for day and sunset trips. Fun to sit on the beach and people watch!





After conquering the sea on Thursday and laying on the beach for a whole day, we decided we were ready to take on the windy roads for one of those faraway restaurants on Friday night. (We didn't make it to Old Stone Farmhouse) Dinner at Prime did NOT disappoint. It's about 25 mins back toward the airport at the top of a mountain in Charlotte Amalie (the biggest town on the island, we even saw KFC and KMart!). During the day, they have golandas that run from the bottom to the top of the hill. The view is breathtaking even at night. The cab dropped us off here at this viewpoint, and then we had to walk down some steps to get to the restaurant. Note to self- arrange a pick up time with your driver before he drops you off. No traffic whatsoever up here.





The boys were so proud of themselves for splitting a tomahawk steak


There is a balcony that runs the whole length of the restaurant, and they encourage you to walk around and enjoy it while you are waiting for your food. 


Live piano music too


A selfie spot back at the hotel


January 7th





While we were at dinner Friday night, the Ducks surprised us and asked if we'd be up for a half day boat ride the next day. Are you kidding?! We are BOAT PEOPLE now!! My little fingers couldn't type fast enough as I started trying to find us a boat. Luckily, Over the Line had a boat available, and Captain Jordan was willing to come into work on his day off. We took a 1/2 day cruise to USVI on a 40’ Deep Impact 399 named “Outta Line.” We struggled to outrun some rain, but even that couldn't rain on our parade. We had SO MUCH FUN.


Scott Bay (St. John) snorkeling was AMAZING. We saw so many sea turtles just feet below us and also two sting rays. (Note Kenny Chesney’s house is on the tip top of that hill on the far right over our shoulders) This is the site of the ruined Caneel Bay Resort which is a very interesting story involving the Rockefellers. Read more here



Suns out, guns out!


Ok, just kidding, the rain is coming. Quick! So we jetted across the bay to Lovango. I've never seen anything like this boat life. Our captain pulled up to the beach club but not all the way up to the dock, and I looked at him like how are we going to get all the way over there??  He called into the resort, requested a dinghy, and then they came out to pick us up as the rain started.


Made it to land just in time! Lovango is a resort on a semi-private island with treehouses and glamp tents, but all of that was on the other side of the island. Boaters are welcome to come to this part of the island and enjoy the beach, restaurant, bar, and shopping. It was beautiful and so much fun.






We couldn't leave while it was raining, so we just entertained ourselves! Pina coladas went down real easy!






We explored a sunken ship




Headed back to the Ritz (Coconut Grove side, timeshares)


The boys made sure our bags arrived on land safe and dry


I've always wanted to see palm trees coming out of the sand right at the beach, and I was a LITTLE EXCITED


Dinner at Easterly in Red Hook. It's a really pretty and modern seafood place, all open air but covered.



January 8th





Dinner at Caribbean Fish Market, at the resort next door to the Ritz, can just take a hotel shuttle, ocean front building, can eat on covered patio or inside




Always cheering on the Grizz



January 9th

One last selfie from the top floor of the lobby building



Oh lookie, I see the Ducks!



Additional Tips:

The hotel concierge organized a private car (Escalade, Suburban) to pick us up from the airport, although you can do a taxi too. Private car was generally $425ish roundtrip. It's about a 45-min windy ride to the resort. Hotel recommended that we leave the hotel 3 hours before departure. You go through customs in St. Thomas on the way home.

If you rent a boat, hotel asks you do to do it through them so that you can be picked up at the hotel rather than meet them at the marina. 

Sapphire was another hotel recommended to us. 

Windmill Bar on St. John was recommended for good sunset view.

Secret Harbor on St. Thomas for good sunset. Ritz did not have a sunset view- it set behind us.

Ferry over to St. John Mahoe Beach for snorkeling with sea turtles.

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